Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Cycle Tour to Norway





Arriving via Iceland, I landed in Stavanger (on the south west coast and second largest city in Norway) and was picked up by my buddy Benjamin. We headed to the island of Talgje where he lives. We spent the first few days in and around Stavanger, cycling, gathering maps for potential cycle routes and preparing for our 10 day trip.

Our first hike was out to Preikestolen, 'the Priest's Pulpit' a huge block of granite that rises 600 meters above Lysefjord. It was a rainy day but we enjoyed the 2 hour hike in, met some folks from Vancouver, and hiked the hour and a half out.


I got to participate in the May 17 Independance Day celebrations. This is a big event for Norwegians, everyone dressing in their traditional costumes called 'bunad'. We attended a neighborhood breakfast, walked in the local parade singing songs and waving the flag. We finished at the local community centre where there were speeches and the kindergarten entertained us with songs.






A nice lunch was served. Kids were invited outside to join the games - pillow fights on a log, running and cycle races. Adults did the nail driving contest, shooting and horseshoes. Lots of fun. Later on waffels, drinks and ice cream were on sale.


On one sunny day we caught a ferry and cycled around a chain of 6 islands call the Sjernarøy islands all of which are joined by bridges. Not much traffic and beautiful scenery, green farms, sheep and cows, the islands surrounded by ocean and sailboats.





Finally, we loaded the van and headed out north to catch a ferry Mortavika to Vangsnes where we headed up Sørfjorden to Odda, Kinsarvik and another ferry to access the road to Voss. We camped in Voss, which is like a Canmore with many outdoor stores, hiking areas, cycling, skiing and climbing opportunities for like minded folks!







On to Gudvangen in the rain, stopping at a hotel high in the mountains which reminded me of Switzerland with deep valleys, steep hillsides, farms, winding roads, etc. From there to Fløm where there is a train through the mountain to Myrdal but unfortunately was not running due to a rock slide. Then on through the longest tunnel in the world - 24.5 km long - Laerdalstunneln.















Another ferry to Kaupanger and camping in Sogndal. It rained the next day so we decided to do some mountaineering on Nigardsbreen glacier where the rain was not so much an issue. It was interesting to note that it had receded by about 20 meters since I was climbing there 5 years ago!

















Then up and over the Jotunheimen in rain to Lom on narrow roads lined with steep snow still melting from winter's accumulation. Lom was beautiful, the sun came out and we found a nice cycling loop along the lake. We drove to Otta and camped there in a campground on the river which was flowing heavy due to meltwaters and recent rains. The next day we saw farms and campgrounds flooded and a few homes and cabins under water. The main road E6 was close to flooding and it rained all the way to Oslo, where the sun came out. Lunch in Oslo and on to Kongsberg hostel.




















Another sunny day took us to Notodden, the Heddal Stavkirkje (stave church) and nice cycle paths along the road. Then headed to Dalen where we found the Telemark Canal system and rode one leg of the area from Ulefoss to Lunde in a loop. This canal was built in the mid 1800's and still operational today. A boat leaves Dalen at 8:10am daily through the canals and back by 6pm in the evening.

Our final day was driving from Dalen to the coast up and over the south Hardanger Vida where huge walls of snow still lined the roads. We kept dropping elevation through beautiful farms, waterfalls and out to Stavanger. All in all, a great cycling trip in spite of frequent rain, we had enough sun to really enjoy many of the locations in Norway. (I took detailed notes to put together a 2 week cycle tour for 2015.)
























Monday, April 28, 2014

Norway - heading back to cycle, ski and climb!


After a 5 year absence from Europe, I am heading back to Stavanger (via Iceland) to visit my friend Benjamin and set up a cycle tour for next year. The plan is to develop a 2 week tour including all around Stavanger, Tau to the Preikestolen, ferry to Lysebotn, ride and hike to Kjeragbolten, and more cycling near Voss, Aurland, Sogndal, and the Jotunheimen. Stay tuned for the adventure!










Sunday, May 31, 2009

Telemark




Telemark skiing is a beautiful style of skiing which I enjoy each winter. A few days ago I came through the area where the Norwegian, Sondre Norheim, developed the telemark skiing style on a shaped ski back in 1866 and subsequently won many ski competitions. I found a museum in Mørgetal where he was born and learned to ski. There is an Olympic flame here which has been lit several times for the 1952 Oslo and 1994 Lillehammer Olympics. The drive up over the Hardanger Vidda was just as amazing as the Jotunheimen area, good elevation, lots of snow and would be good skiing if I brought my skis. It was windy and quite cool, +5C.

One thing that distinguishes Norway (other than the fjords, petroleum and fishing) are the Stave churches. There are only about 32 left in Norway and I seen 3 I have never been to, including the one in Heddal, which is Norway's largest one. These are made entirely of wood and preserved on the exterior with a pine tar pitch that coats it black\brown and smells of burnt pine. Very unique and with great wood carvings inside, and a roof like the inside of a Viking boat.

Found a nice hostel in Kongsberg, cycled to the silver mines there and drove into Oslo early yesterday. Today is +25C just north of Oslo, and I went out for a 50km ride in the sun which is supposed to last until rain comes again Tuesday. My flight is 11:30am Monday so I will miss it.

Food has been good - lots of whole grain and wheat breads, sliced cheese (ost) and meats, 3 kinds of herring and musli with coffee for most breakfasts. Two buns have become my favorites - skolebolle (school roll), a pastry with custard, icing and coconut and cannellebolle, a cinnamon roll. Weiner pølse is a great tasting hot dog. While staying in Stavanger, on Talgje, Benjamin's mom made several special dinners - the best was crepes with butter and blueberry preserve that accompanied a yellow pea soup with sausage, potato (potet) and carrots 8 (gulrot)in it. Fresh tomatoes (tomat) and cucumber (agurk) accompany breakfast, lunch and dinners.

Well, tonight I must re-pack my bike and all the gear. The helpful people and beautiful countryside have made this a great tour. I will add some photos when I return home - my USB card reader did not work.
Hade bro, have a good one,
Neil

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Stavanger





Now have spent several days in and around Stavanger - in the rain again. There is a lot of Viking history here and on the island of Talgje where I am staying with Benjamin's family. This is a small island accessible only by ferry, although they are building a tunnel as over time it is cheaper than a ferry system and more sustainable. We hiked up to the highest point (54m) was where a viking grave was located from about 1000AD. Yesterday, due to rain, we went to the Norwegian Oil Museum for some history of the oil boom in Norway. We took a ferry up Lysefjord to Lysebotn and saw the Preikestolen and Kjerag. Back to dinner and then went to the Talgje Church which was built between 1130 and 1150AD. They have a beautiful organ which I was pleased to play. Depends on weather again, but rain is predicted tomorrow and then to improve toward the weekend. 
I want some sun!
Neil

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Galdhøpiggan Peak



May 23
It was amazing to come over the Jotunheimen National park and see the huge mountains of central Norway. Yesterday, Knut and I spent the day with harness, crampons and ice tools on Nigardsbreen glacier walking up about 350m in elevation and the skies were a mix of sun-cloud so got some good photos. Unfortunately, my usb is not working and I can´t upload any new photos.

Today we joined 5 of Knut´s friends and did some ski mountaineering in the Jotunheimen. We skied to the top of 4 - 2000m peaks including Galdhøpiggan, the highest point in Norway and northern Europe at 2469m. Four peaks in one day! It is absolutely amazing here.

I am off to southern Norway in the morning, taking a ferry to the mainland and heading to Stavanger arriving sometime Monday and hopefully meeting up with Benjamin. We plan to visit Lysefjord, and hike to the Preikestølen, and possibly the Kjerag, a chockstone between two mountain bluffs.

Hoping all is well wherever you are!
Neil

Monday, May 18, 2009

Independance Day May 17 Oslo



The weather has been a mixed bag but for the Norwegian national holiday, things turned out well. So many people on Karl Johann lined up in traditional dress, eating ice cream and waving their flags, it was very festive. Students celebrate their grad by wearing red painter pants and party from May 1 until now. They are getting tired now, but it is a rite of passage.

Everyone is also celebrating Alexander who won the Eurovision song contest in Moscow on Saturday. This is a big event and every radio is playing the song and you hear it everywhere. ABBA won this back in the 1970's with Waterloo!


Overnight it began to rain again and all day today. Arrived in Lillehammer hostel mid afternoon after a stop in Hamar to see the hall where the Olympic figure skating was held in 1994. The building is like upturned Viking ship.




The weather forecast is not good. Rain for the next 5 days, snow at higher elevations. It seems I missed the good weather by a few days.




Off to Otta tomorrow. The girl at the hostel says that if it is clear at night, it usually rains all the next day. Well, it is clearing, rainy up north. I will have to wait and see.




Pray for SUN!


Neil

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Enough training...ready to go


I have my 2 panniers packed, passport, rail tickets, and with my hydration pack and a credit card I am off in less than 48 hours. I will arrive Saturday afternoon and arrange to leave the bike box at Gardermoen Oslo airport until Monday when I start riding to Lillehammer. I plan to take in the National Independance Day celebrations in Oslo on Sunday, May 17. More later.

Neil